1. I have my own granite that I would like to match? Can you make my knobs from that?
Yes, just send us a sample and we will find a perfect match. Or, send us your exact stone and we will make your knobs from your stone.
Your stone should be a minimum of 3/4" thick. 1 square foot will be enough for 30 knobs. If you don't have a piece that large, it's no problem. We can use pieces of stone as well.
2. How long does it take to make my knobs?
Usually the turn around is one week. However, we say two weeks in the event we are backed up on orders. We try very hard to get your order to you ASAP.
3. I'm not sure which design will look good with a particular stone. Can you make me samples?
Yes, we can make single samples of any combination you want.
4. Should I have extras made in the event one of them is damaged at some time in the future?
It doesn't hurt to make one or two extras although in all likelihood we will be able to match your stone and design without any problem.
5. What is the size of the screw and does it come with the stone knob?
The screws for the shanks will be provided. The length of the screw is 1" and the diameter - 10/32 ".
6. Which finish should I choose, natural, honed or tumbled?
Hint: Granite and marble knobs mostly require shiny (natural) finish so as to show the details of stone, whereas limestone and travertine may be honed or tumbled.
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Replacing Cabinet Hardware can give your cabinets, and your kitchen or bathroom, an inexpensive face-lift!
Here are some tips on installing your New Cabinet Hardware.
After you have removed the old hardware, or pulls, clean the area and scrape off old residue. The surface should be flat and clean.
Patch the holes, especially if your new hardware has a different hole alignment. Wood cabinets can be patched with wood filler that matches the cabinet door.
Using a pencil, mark the holes for the new hardware. Make sure the pulls are level and centered.
It is a good idea to counter punch the pencil mark by genteelly taping the hole with the tip of a nail or counter punch tool. This keeps your drill bit from wandering off the hole when you drill the holes. There is nothing worse than the mark made by a wandering drill bit on your nice cabinet drawers/doors.
Drill the new holes from the front of the cabinet doors. Drilling from the front of the drawer/door keeps the hole clean and free from chips that can happen when the drill bit exits the hole on the rear side of the drawer/door. Chipping on the inside of the drawer/door is not as bad a problem.
The size of the drill should be large enough to drill a hole large enough for the new screw to pass into the hole easily, but with not so large that the hole is sloppy. If you have any doubts, test your hole on a scrap of wood first.
If your cabinet fronts are so thick that the screws do not reach the knob. Use a larger drill bit that is sized big enough to allow the width of a screw driver to enter the hole. From the back side of the drawer/door, "counter sink" the hole to the point that the screw will reach your knobs. Make sure you do not go all the way through by wrapping a small piece of tape around the larger drill bit. This will visibly show the stopping point for each hole.
Screw your new hardware into the cabinet knobs. Do not over tighten the screws, and make sure the threads turn easy so the screw threads are not cross threaded. If the screw is hard to turn, recheck the alignment of the knob and screw.
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